Ausuittuq, roughly means place that never thaws. It is the most northerly civilian community in Canada. In 1953 and 1955, the Canadian government relocated Inuit families from Inukjuak in northern Quebec and Pond Inlet to Grise Fiord and Resolute Bay. The government wanted to establish a stronger Canadian presence in the High Arctic, particularly during the Cold War, but the relocated families faced extremely harsh conditions, unfamiliar surroundings, and shortages of food.
The community eventually became established, and its Inuit residents developed a strong way of life based on hunting, trapping, fishing, and knowledge of the Arctic environment. In 2010, the Canadian government formally apologized for the hardships and suffering caused by the relocations.
We awoke to see sunshine for the first time since we began the cruise.
Although it was calm in town, the wind was blowing 31 knots out in the bay, bringing in a significant swell that made getting out of the zodiacs difficult. Despite wearing boots that came to our knees, Jane got a soaker.
We began our visit with a presentation of local talent in the community centre. Drum dancing, throat singing, and an exhibition of local sports, such as one leg kicking and muskox wrestling.
We were also treated to a drum song by Larry Audlaluk about his father, who was one of the relocated Innuit in 1953. Larry, himself, was 3 years old when his family was moved to Ausuittuq. He received the Order of Canada in 2007 for his work as an ambassador for the community. His life story is told in his book: What I Remember, What I Know: The Life of a High Arctic Exile, a powerful read that tells the story of his family's struggle with loss, illness, and survival alongside the government reports calling it a success story.
The local COOP store is the centre of town. It was interesting to see that they had an abundant supply of kiwis and avocados, although there was no price tag on them. Some items were about the same price as home, others were 50-100% higher and some items were unbelievably expensive. A bag of dog food cost $299. There was also a supply of cat food, which a local pointed out was odd, as there is not a single cat in town. But his dog really enjoys it and it is much cheaper.
There had been a big catch of Narwhale the previous week. We brought back a large block of Narwhale meat, but we aren't sure how or if it will appear on the menu. The remains from sharing the catch were still on the rocky beach. We are still hoping to see one at sea.
The return Zodiac ride circled the small growler that was floating near the ship.